29 December

Christmas was a very different event from the usual family affair. Much much quieter for a start. I feel so fortunate to have had my friends Paul and Sheila here, or otherwise I suspect I would have had a very lonely time of it. As it was I had a lovely time with them, enjoying French roast goose and Italian cured ham and Swiss chocolate mousse. In a piece of perfect timing, my parents, my friends John and Sharen and my friend Sarah all managed to get things to me on the day before Christmas, so I even had pressies from home to open.

I called mum and dad, and chatted to various members of the family. Everyone seems to be doing well in my absence, which is great, but I was kind of glad to hear that they missed me at Christmas carol time. I did get some sad news. My Uncle Teddy has sold the house at Dalmeny. For those of you that don't know, Dalmeny is a little town on the south coast of NSW. Many holidays of both my childhood and my adulthood have been spent playing on the beaches and climbing the rocks of the little bay at the foot of the driveway. Dalmeny was where I would run to when life got on top of me, when I need to re-centre myself. The house was a wonderful ramshackle sort of place, with years of accumulated happy times filling the walls.

I was pretty shattered by the news. I can't believe that Uncle Teddy sold it like that. I suppose I feel a little like he betrayed my family. My mum and dad looked after the house for years. Every holiday they would come down and do building and repairs and cleaning. They paid the bills, looked after the rates and the bookings. If he had given us the chance, the family would have pulled together and at least been able to buy in "shares" of the place. Its hard to think that when I get back I won't be able to go down and sit by the fire again to toast marshmallows and read the guest book.

At least I did get to visit before I left Australia. It was where I went when I was deciding whether to do this trip or not, to think and contemplate.

The other news in my life is that I am moving. I got offered a studio flat in the centre of town. I did like the flat in Meyrin (especially the views) but the lack of personal space was really bugging me. I kept coming home to find that my flatmate had been in my bedroom while I was at work. She is a nice lady, but I just couldn't stand it. It might have been ok if the rest of the flat was shared, but I really didn't have use of any other space, so felt pretty protective of my tiny room. Anyway, the new place is near to cybercafes, nightlife, restaurants, the lake etc. You never know I might be drastic and go get myself a social life!

Here are a few photos of Christmas. See... snow!

22 December

Wow... another full weekend of fun.

On Friday I drove up to Freiburg, getting thoroughly lost in Basel, and then equally lost in Freiburg. This was rather upsetting, because, as you may or may not know, I have a bit of a phobia of getting lost. I was pretty shaky by the time I arrived, and was grateful to arrive at the Youth hostel.

On Saturday morning I went into the centre of Freiburg and wandered around a bit.. I was early for the Christmas markets, so lurked around. The markets were grand... I enjoyed a glass of "Kinderspunch", a sort of non-alcoholic gluewein, and did some shopping. After some bratwurst um Brot, I decided to go for a drive, to see if I could get to Rothenburg ob die Tauber. Now this was a straightforward plan, which went horribly wrong because I ended up taking the long way. A trip that was supposed to have taken about 3 hours took me 5, and I arrived in Rothenburg at just past 7, with the markets closing at 8. Still, Rothenberg is an indecently cute town, and was worth the drive. I had enough time to go into Kathkarte W. An amazing shop, with the largest candle windmill I have ever seen... 8 metres high at least! Sadly they wouldn't let me take photos.

I headed back to Freiburg via the autobahn. Wow, I have now driven a car at 160 km per hour! Woohoo... such a hoon. It made the trip back to Freiburg a snap, and it was great fun to just for once get to drive really really fast.

Unfortunately I got back to the youth hostel to discover that my sarong was missing, my carefully made bed stripped, and I had a room mate. Damn, damn and double damn. I had carefully left my bed made as I knew I wouldn't be getting in till late, and had left the sarong to show that the bed was taken. So I had to make my bed... My roomie was already in bed asleep, so remaking my bed disturbed her and then my snoring ensured we shared a rotten night's sleep. She got her own back by getting up at 5.45am.

In the morning I went back into Freiburg and went to the "Museum fur ur und fruhgeschichte de Stadt Freiburg" at which I got a wonderful surprise: they have a pair of 13th century spectacle frames!!! Ooh, how to make me a happy girl.

Ok... time to head for home. I decided that two Christmas markets was just not enough, so dropped into Bad Krozigen. The Christmas markets there were quite nice. I headed on, and then, on the way from there, came across a sign that said "Romerstadt"... well how could I resist a Roman ruin. Well, it just got better.. trying to find it, I came across... another Christmas Market! This one was in a rather odd shaped building. After wandering through this very lovely market, I made the climb up the hill to the ruined fortification. Then down again to find the ruins of a Roman bathhouse. I took vast numbers of photographs for my Roman ruins fan friends. Back on the road again, I dropped in to Augusta Raurica to pick up a wax tablet for Crossroads for a raffle.

Off I started again.. it was now 5pm or so. On the way I pulled over for petrol. In the service station area I noticed a note about... another Christmas market! This time in Fribourg, Switzerland. I would have ignored it, but I saw the note... "medievale". hmm... it was finishing in 2 hours time.... how far away? Only about 30kms. Well, after the day of driving I had had, what was another 15 ninutes or so...

Off I went, and got to Fribourg. Of course, once there, there were no signs to the Christmas markets, so I drove around lost for a bit. Once I found the market, right in the centre was this little pocket of medievalists. There was a calligrapher, and I had a bit of a chat to him. He introduced me to his wife, who spoke excellent English. They have a business teaching and selling calligraphy bits. They introduced me to some of the others, and showed me around a bit. She had made a rather groovy tent, and we had a bit of discussion about how to deal with droopy sides. On tents that is.

Apparently there is a medieval group, or groups, in Switzerland. The Company de la Rose.

A busy weekend eh? I managed to spend quite a bit of money, but picked up some lovely bits and pieces. Food is much cheaper in Germany.

Oh, and here is my major hint about Germany. If you are on the autobahn and you see a parking area/wc... and it is winter: go on till you get to a service station. Keep holding and keep on driving. Why? All I can say is -1 and metal seats. Also, Germany's public toilets have the absolute worst toilet paper I have ever encountered. They make the single sheet non-absorbant stuff in Australia seem as soft as meringue in comparison. Take my advice, just don't go there.

15 December

Well that was a fun weekend. On Friday night I went and saw Matrix. Saturday I headed out relatively early and bought a pair of shoes at the local shops - one of the first times in my life where I bought the first pair of shoes that I tried on! They were just sooo comfortable. Not the look I would most desire, but I am over having sore feet: the fancy Tommy Hilfiger shoes I bought rub one particular spot and just haven't been getting better. Anyway I am sure you aren't interested in my feet.

I then headed off to the Carouge markets. Carouge is one of the fancy parts of town, and I had heard there was a decent Christmas market. It was true. The fruit and vegie markets looked like a regular weekend market, but then I found the Christmas bit. It wasn't all that Christmassy, but there were some lovely crafts there; really high quality pottery and some gorgeous hats. There was also a band wandering the market playing some grand salsa-y music. I had lunch from a food stall.... raclette... damn I love this joint. That and a nice cup of Vin Chaud (mulled wine) and I was set.

I found my secret santa present for work (I have, of course, organised my work into having their first all work function for about 3 years) and a new butterfly for my collection. I also found the christmas present for my friend Sheila. But it weighed a bit so I decided that it was sensible to head home and drop the stuff off. I got home, put my feet up for a bit, and then headed out again, this time to the centre of town.

Now this was what I had been looking for. People dressed up in costume, pipers, armour, cannons firing, the lot. I squeezed myself through the passage de Monetiers (the Moneyers passage). Hmmm... I suppose I should explain l'Escalade.

In brief; on the longest night of the year (the 21st/22nd of December) the Duke of Savoy attacked the walls of Geneva. Now you may well have noticed that the celebration of l'Escalade takes place on a date reasonably distant from the 21st/22nd. That's because the Genovese are a stubborn lot and weren't having a bar of this here modern Julian calendar as brought in by that upstart Pope Gregory XIII. {grin}

So anyway, at 2.30 in the morning the Duke's troops attacked, using giant extending ladders to scale the impressively high city walls, along the south side of what is now known as the Rue de la Corraterie. They climbed the wall unhindered, and were off exploring when the sentinel of the Mint Tower heard a noise and Francois Bousezel was sent to investigate. He had just time to fire a shot from his arquebuse before he fell, but the shot was heard and alarm raised.

Now I am not going to get into all the ins and outs of the battles, but the white hats won the day. But the incident of the battle which is dearest to the hearts of the Genovese took place at the battle of the Mint. The director of the mint's wife Mistress Royaume was cooking a big pot of winter soup, and poured the hot soup over the attacking troops, followed by the cauldron.

It is kind of sweet that they know the names of each of the 18 Genovese that died in the fighting (16 in the battle and two others later from their wounds) on that night in 1602. Each year they celebrate the anniversary of the battle, and have chocolate cauldrons filled with marzipan fruit, that they break while shouting "and so perish the enemies of the Republic!"

There is a group called De Companie 1602 which is a 300 strong group that dresses up in meticulously researched costumes once a year, and march around the town each year. They were what I had come to see. The main action takes place on the Sunday but I just knew I couldn't have faced the crowds, and I am glad I went on Saturday as I got to see heaps, and got to go through the passage de Monetiers, this tiny narrow passage which is only open on this one weekend a year, and is where some of the fiercest fighting took place. The passage is so narrow that at one point, you have to go through it like a crab, because you cannot fit front on through it!

The way along the passage was lit by small boys in costumes, carrying rather scary looking torches. At the end, you get a free cup of Vin Chaud to warm you up. I also bought some vegetable soup, which came in a lovely pottery tankard.

Check out some of the photos I took. Unfortunately many of them didn't work very well, as I ran out of battery and had to attempt to take them without a flash, which made all the people blurry. Ah well..

12 December

I found out why I couldn't find l'Escalade. Apparently the course l'Escalade happens a week before the date so this weekend is the big deal. So I have delayed my trip to Germany for the Christmas markets till next weekend. I am going to go stay in Freibourg, and then from there maybe drive to Strassbourg for their markets as well. Since tomorrow morning I am planning to go to the Christmas markets in Carouge... I will be thoroughly christmassed out by the end of it all!

11 December

Now this I found interesting... I discovered that Swiss coins have been in circulation for ages... I found a 20 centime coin in my purse dated 1909. It is pretty much identical to the ones from this year. Not big ones for change the Swiss... hey wow give it just a few more years and it will be a hundred years old! Not bad going for a coin still being used. Mind you, the machine at the bus stop wouldn't accept it.

I wonder how many other countries are using exactly the same coins that they used 100 years ago? It would have to be somewhere that was already using decimal currencies, either that or one that still hasn't gotten it together. Hmmm.. America perhaps?

10 December

I have just had a few days off sick. Got myself a nasty cold. I went to the doctor and, while I was there, got a new prescription for my regular medication. The cold medication was cheap, but the asthma preventer cost me 58 euro!! Ouch!

Well I went to l'Escalade. This is supposed to be one of the big events of Geneva. Partying in the streets etc. Ahah I thought, at last some real life! I went into town in hope to find le Companie 1602. This mob frock up in 1602 gear and do displays on this day. But I couldn't find them anywhere!

I did get to see the running of the escalade, when the populace of Geneva dress up in goofy costumes and run around. I drank some hot wine, and I went home. I was home by 8pm. Sad eh? I walked and walked and searched and searched, without any joy.

But still, the lights were pretty and people were skating in the outdoor rink.

2 December

I have been contemplating my travel plans. The more I travel the more I realise that ever so brief visits to countries is not enough. But I don't know quite how to deal with it all. I have to work to live, but it means that my time is really limited.

I think what I need to do is to save up hard and take the last few months of my time off as a holiday to wander about. This may mean winding back my continuing travel but I am hopeful that I will still be able to do things. I am booked to go to Wales at the beginning of January and that is still going ahead. I have vague plans to drive to Italy for lunch some weekend before that, and maybe to visit Helen in Holland, so don't fear that there won't be any more exciting episodes to my journal!