20 April

Much of Kilkenny castle has been restored, but sadly I can't show you as they don't permit photographs.

Rothe house was actually a bit more interesting - more stuff appealing to my period than Kilkenny. St Canice's cathedral was also very lovely.

I drove on to St Mary's Church, which was in terrible condition, but still very beautiful (13th century). It has some sweet stone sculptures.

From there to Duiske Abbey, which has been reasonably sympathetically restored, and does have some lovely medieval tiles to be seen, as well as some magnificent high crosses. Driving back towards Waterford, I couldn't help pulling over to see St Molings Well. I don't know who St Molings was... must do a web search.

There you go.... "St. Moling was a 7th century cleric, prince, poet, artist and artisan. It is said that St. Moling dug a mile-long watercourse with his own hands to power his mill - a task that took seven years! He became Bishop of Ferns, died in 697 and is buried at St. Mullin's."

I stayed the night at a farm-house hostel, where, much to my surprise the owners recognised the name "Grubb" and were able to tell me that my distant relatives still live in Waterford. Now, this farm was 25 kms away from Waterford, and these people not only knew there were Grubbs, but two families of them. 1 apparently make the Cashel blue cheese (which I tried the next day... yummm) and the other are Quakers. That'd be my lot then. I just can't believe that they even knew what religion the Grubbs are!

Thus my last day wandering Ireland started off with a visit to Waterford and D Grubb Art Supplies. I also bought the worlds largest scotch egg, and a bread roll called of all things, a Blaa.

Then it was back to Dublin, where I met up with Gilbere, a local SCAer for another wander of the city and dinner. Next day I flew out, not before taking a photo of this rather fun sculpture at the airport.

19 April

In the morning, I parted ways with the guys - they had to head back to Dublin, and I to..... Ballybunion! I took a ferry, and, dropping past Carrigafoyle Castle, headed to Ballybunion. Ballybunion is a lovely seaside town. There is what is nominally called a castle there, but there is almost nothing left of it. I could happily see myself having a nice week long break in Ballybunion.

After a walk on the beach, I headed down to Tralee and then Killarney. In Killarney they have quite a groovy little museum. In the basement of the building is an "experience medieval life" display which is actually really well done. They seem to have been able to fit into a small space quite a lot... a kind of walk through a medieval town.

From there I headed through Cork to Midleton to stay the night in a nice hostel. Maria (the hostess) in the morning suggested that rather than taking the fast road up to Cahir, I should go over the Vee. Great suggestion. For a start, I got to go to Capoquin.

Travelling over the vee is quite spectacular, and I also came across a rag tree. Rag trees are usually hawthorn and are covered in tied on rags, which are tied on in the belief that the person whose cloth it is will be healed as the rag rots.

In Cahir there is a beautifully restored castle to wander, and in the castle is an interesting display on the 16th century history of Ireland. For me, most interesting were what appear to be period woodcuts showing the garb of the period. Then it was off to the Rock of Cashel, sadly arriving just as it closed.

From there I started on my way south again, to Rathgormack. I was doing my best to stay at the most obscure hostels I could find, rather than just staying in the cities. Rathgormack is just south of Carrick-on-Suir, off the beaten track a bit. The hostel is built into the town hall. Its a really rather fabulous building; purpose built, it has a big hall which doubles as a gym, and has a stage at the back. There is a good sized kitchen that feeds into it, and a small lounge room. Above the kitchen, entry way and lounge, are two rooms filled with bunk beds. I was, when I arrived, the only person staying the night, and Brigid Ann made me feel very comfy and welcome none-the-less. Some of the locals came and went and I ended up having a long conversation with a local bloke (who was perhaps 20 years my senior and very charming). Rathgormack is very close to one of the Gaeltacht areas, so Brigid Ann and this charming gentleman chatted away in Irish which was very interesting to hear, and attempted to teach me a few words.

I headed back to Carrick-on-Suir in the morning to check out Ormonde castle. Much to my disappointment it doesn't open to the public until June. Ah well... on to Kilkenny castle.

18 April

In the morning, the Brazilian boys asked me where I was off to, and invited me to join them going to the local caves. Why not? The caves were interesting; not as gorgeous as some of the Australian ones, but lovely none-the-less. The guys were most impressed - I told them that they really need to get to Australia! They then asked me if I would like to come with them to the cliffs of Moher.... why not! The cliffs weren't something I had really thought about visiting, but hey, did it matter? As it was, we had a great time taking a very very long walk along the edge. The guys were a bit on the foolhardy side, and walked right on the edge of the cliff; even though the cliff edges were distinctly crumbly. I joked with the driver, that if he was going to walk that close to the edge, he should at least pass over the car keys! The cliffs were certainly spectacular, and I got some very successful photographs. I was also very amused at a sign on display which seemed to clearly say that falling off the cliff is forbidden. The boys were totally sweet, and helped me over slippery patches in the path, and then to climb up the wall so I could see the sunset from the best spot.

We stayed the night in the Lahinch Hostel. The boys decided they wanted to cook dinner, so we had spaghetti for main course and I made something resembling ambrosia for dessert.

17 April

Dragged myself out of bed, and before heading to the airport to pick up my hire car and hit the road. Before I left Dublin I went into M&S and bought a bra. I was truly stunned to find that they sell, of all things, push-up padded bras in my size. I mean, seriously... padded?! I had to take a photo to prove it was true.

Off I went. As I drove, I saw in the distance windmills, which appear to be in the water... I don't yet know where they were... maybe they really were!

After stopping at Fern Castle, I drove in the direction of Waterford. I drove through one town, where there seemed be a castle for sale; a nightclub in a castle at least! I also picked up a hitch-hiker. I know I know, it isn't safe, but seriously, I could have fought this little old man off with one hand tied behind my back. As it was, he was very charming, and I drove him home to his farm. He had just returned from a true budget trip around America - 6 weeks on a hop on hop off bus, staying in hostels and even a homeless shelter or two. I got to meet his wife, and two grown up kids, and see the farmhouse, which was lovely - low ceilinged, uneven floored and with a glorious garden. I had been having troubles getting through to the youth hostel, and they helped me by calling the hostel and giving me directions. They also told me that there were Grubbs still living in Waterford.

I flew down the road to try to get to the hostel before their door closing at 10pm. Managed it by a breath. It was COOOL. Nothing like a youth hostel in a castle to appeal to the medievalist in me! Winding staircase, odd little rooms, and a great dining hall.

I met up with a largeish group of Americans, and played some card games with them for while. Three Brazilians turned up and ate their big bowl of pasta while we played. The Americans went to bed, and I read for a while then went to bed myself.

16 April

With two new friends; a Brazilian couple I wandered out to check out the Easter parade. I had hoped it would be a wonderful colourful parade. I didn't know much about it beforehand, you see. We gathered with the crowd and peered over the heads, to see a parade of soldiers and guns and tanks and other horrible things. So much for a happy Easter parade!

Ah well, on to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells. Again I was disappointed; this time by the fact that instead of the Long Hall being filled with display cases of other illuminated manuscripts, it was filled instead with papers on the life of Samuel Beckett. Much as Samuel Beckett is admirable, I would have much rathered see illuminated manuscripts.

The day just sort of disappeared - I had a hamburger for dinner - its been a while since I have seen one of them, and enjoyed it thoroughly.

15 April

I have decided to write the trip to Ireland as it happened, with the dates being the dates that I did things, rather than the date I wrote them up. Hope you don't mind.

So, Easter Saturday, I started to wander Dublin. I started by exploring around O'Connell street. I was happy to spot a Marks and Spencers (Oh goody a new bra or two perhaps). I tried catching the bus a bit, but failed rather miserably. The map that the Dublin tourist office had given me of bus routes was unbelievably useless; I think I will have to scan it in so you can see just how appalling it is. I noticed as I passed a cinema that a new movie was opening on the 21st... Tristan and Isolde! How cool is that; it immediately made me think of my friend Sarah and I was determined to see it.

I went on to the National museum of Decorative Arts and History. Much to my disappointment, photos were not permitted, but to be truthful, there wasn't really much I wanted to photograph. As a medievalist, it was very disappointing indeed. I was there for maybe 40 minutes, then attempted to find a bus again to get back to the centre of town.

When I got back to O'Connell street there was a parade on; the Sinn Fean were commemorating the anniversary of the first hunger strike. Most of the passers-by didn't take much notice, to be truthful. I had an sms from Waseem; one of the SCAers in Dublin, so we met up. He was very lovely and we walked around Dublin.

After visiting that, we tried going to the Heraldry Museum, but it was closed. Walking on, we went to the Museum of Archeology and History. Now this was more like it. Seeing the beautiful Tara brooch, a fabulous gold boat, and even better, some 16th century clothing! I managed to get a few pictures, before being told that they too, do not permit photos. Maaaann... sucks. I wouldn't mind so much the refusal to allow pictures, if they only had postcards that I could buy that showed the details I want!

Sadly the museum closed and threw us out. We wandered over to the cinema, and went and saw "Ice Age 2". It was quite fun - a nice light film that suited the mood. Afterwards dinner at an Italian restaurant, which was excellent. Waseem was great company and I enjoyed the afternoon and evening heaps.

14 April

Well, after a week long holiday in Ireland, I have a lot of catching up to do! I actually find it really difficult getting up to date after these trips, there is just so much to try and tell you about, and I don't want to stint. Unfortunately I tidied the apartment a little before I left and now can't find the cord to go from my camera to the computer. Bugger.

Still, I shall forge ahead and add photos maybe Tuesday or Wednesday (as I am out on Monday nights at choir, especially at the moment with a concert tour coming up).

Friday morning (14th) a friend came over to visit, so I was busy entertaining and packing and cleaning; a relaxing start to the holiday eh? Anyway I got off to the plane on time, and was on my way. Dublin airport is quite easy to negotiate, and it didn't take long to find my way to the info desk to buy a bus ticket. Once in Dublin I found the hostel relatively easily. I was staying at Globetrotters, which costs the same as all the other hostels in town but includes breakfast. The staff weren't overwhelmingly welcoming, and when I explained that I really would prefer a bottom bunk, told me it wasn't possible to allocate specific bunks and didn't know if my bed was upper or lower. I went to the room and discovered that it not only was an upper bunk, but had a large overhanging I-dont-know-what that meant that there was absolutely no way I would fit. So I went and argued the case successfully to be moved to the lower bunk (the person booked into the lower hadn't turned up).

Anyway, you probably don't want to know all this trivial stuff eh? Lets skip it then and get straight to the "what did you see" bit. I wandered out into the street to see what I could see. What I could see is that my budget wasn't going to make it through the week. But I did of course see the Dublin Spike, which is a large, well, spike in the centre of town. I couldn't actually find any plaque to explain why they had put a gigantic spike in the middle of O'Connor street. On the way back to the hostel I walked into a small shopping mall and saw something that made me laugh. Its a collection box for the Irish version of the RSPCA, but rather than the single dog that we have on the ones in Australia, this one had two... looks rather indecent really.

I had some rather boring Chinese/Malay for dinner.

9 April

Great weekend! Friday night was a happy hour at work, after which I headed over to Sam's place for home made curries... mmmmm.

Saturday I had a good long sleep in, then went to a volunteers meeting, for the Saturday night party... Saturday night was Sindy/GenevaOnLine's Spring party. It was a fabulous night, and I got home by 5am.

I had organised a brunch for Sunday, as a bit of recovery, and knowing the night before, made it for 1pm. A bunch of us gathered for a lovely Yum Cha at what is fast becoming a favourite restaurant for me. Most of the day was taken up with this lunch, after which, reluctantly, we parted ways. If we could only have found a cafe that was open and non-smoking apart from Starbucks, we would have gone on chatting and socialising for another 3 hours!

One of the lovely things about this particular restaurant is its location on the Quai du Mont Blanc; the edge of the lake. That makes it only a short walk from the pier where the mouette (boat bus) comes in. So I simply walk to the end of my street and along the edge till the Eaux Vives Mouette, where I hop on and get taken across the lake to the other side. A lovely little trip on a Sunday morning.

1 April

Last night went to an Ethiopian dinner with GOL. Very decorative restaurant, but food was not hugely impressive.

Last week learnt three things, perhaps none of them useful, but interesting to me none-the-less:

1. Branle is french for "swing".
2. If your name is JJ in French you spell it out loud as GiGi. If your name is Gigi,
   you spell it out loud as JayJay. (ok, so I am easily amused)
3. The french have a saying "Pas bras pas chocolat". translating literally to "no arms no chocolate" figuratively it means something along the lines of "we don't have what we can't have". Odd but true.